Craters of the Moon: Idaho’s Strange Wonderland

It was originally called Idaho’s Wonderland. What an unusual name for a desolate area!

It refers to 753,000 acres of volcanic rock, lava flows, spatter and cinder cones, open fissures, twisted trees, and tunnel caves. It’s an area believed created by eight eruptions some 2,000 years apart. The last eruption was perhaps 2,100 years ago.

Today, it’s called Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve near the small town of Arco, Idaho, literally in the middle of nowhere. It’s also celebrating its 100th anniversary. And there is nothing else like it in the lower 48 states.

Indians could lay claim that their ancestors, generations ago, had seen this area spit forth fire and smoke. Why would Indians even go to such a remote area? Did you know that tribes such as the Shoshone-Bannock traveled from their reservation in southeastern Idaho some 1,200 miles each year in search of food and grazing land?

Their journey began in spring with grassland for their horses. In summer, they sought and dug onion-like bulbs, a year-round staple of their diet, which they supplemented with nuts and berries. In the fall, they hunted small game and fished for salmon. Before winter set in, they also hunted buffalo and elk near the Yellowstone River before returning to their Indian reservation, Fort Hall.
The Indians knew of the lava rock. They may have even used the caves as hiding places. For most, the area was to be shunned and even feared. It was said that those who entered it did not return. However, we know for a fact that Indians walked that land, leaving behind artifacts such as obsidian arrowheads, pottery, and tools.

Curiosity led white men to the land of the lava rock. In the 1880s, a few ranchers came in search of water for their stock. In 1918, some others came in search of grizzly bears. But most agreed the land was uninhabitable and little was said or done about it. However, an explorer named R. W. Limbert brought Craters of the Moon to public attention and solidified its name.

Robert Limbert was born in Minnesota in 1885. He was raised in Nebraska and worked for the Smithsonian Institution as a field naturalist. In 1911, he moved to Boise, Idaho, to be a taxidermist and within a few years, he had the region’s largest taxidermy business.

In 1915, Limbert designed an award-winning Idaho exhibit for the San Francisco World’s Fair. He then spent several years writing about Idaho scenery for various newspapers and magazines. He was not only a talented writer and taxidermist but also an avid outdoor photographer, entertainer, sharpshooter, and promoter.

In 1920, Limbert and a companion took a 17-day, 80-mile trek to Idaho’s land of old lava flows and volcanic cones, an area that few had ever seen. They were drawn by stories of large grizzly bears walking among the lava flows. It was a hard trip, requiring each man to carry 55 pounds of supplies. They would need blankets, cooking gear, camera equipment, tripods, guns, and two weeks’ worth of dried food. To find water they followed old trails or looked to the sky and watched birds locate water. As they noticed land features, Limbert gave them various names which we still recognize today.

Limbert returned the next year, taking along ten scientists and civic leaders. In 1921, he brought back visual proof of the expedition —200 still photographs and over 4,000 feet of motion picture.

Limbert was so taken with the uniqueness of the area that he wrote an article about it called,
“Among the Craters of the Moon.” It was published in the January 1, 1924 edition of National Geographic Magazine and brought this remote Idaho landscape to public attention. He could only describe his own experience as akin to being on the lunar surface, very similar to our moon. In March of 1924, a topographical survey of the land was done. It showed that there was nothing else like it in the United States outside of Hawaii.

In March of 1924, Limbert sent a scrapbook of his work (complete with photos and narration) to President Calvin Coolidge. Two months later, on May 2, President Coolidge issued a proclamation to set aside and protect “Craters of the Moon” as a National Monument. On June 15, 1924, a dedication ceremony was held with 500 people in attendance.

Work quickly began on road improvements so that by 1925, Craters of the Moon was accessible to tourists. It provided an interesting stop-off for those going to and from Yellowstone National Park. It received publicity in the various newspapers of the day.

For many years, Craters of the Moon was seasonal. It opened in late May or early June and closed again in late September. Opening day was a big deal. There were speeches, marching bands, club participations and a parade of cars waiting to get in. Tourists could travel seven miles of paved roadway within the national monument with various pullouts and trails for exploring. The admission price in 1957 was 50 cents per car. An annual permit that year cost $1.

A new visitor center was completed in 1960 and by 1966, Craters of the Moon was open year-round. It had almost a quarter million visitors per year in the 1960s. The area was popular in spring when tiny white flowers, called wild buckwheat, appeared amid the black dust.

Occasionally, area roads there close to automobiles. At various times, the national monument is accessible only to hikers, bikers, or skiers. Winter could bring 24 inches of snow. One campground stayed open from April 15 to October 15.

There has been a campaign for years to make Craters of the Moon a national park. However, each time, it seems to fall short of that designation. National parks are known for many attractions. National monuments have a main attraction. Besides Craters of the Moon, Idaho has other historic sites, national monuments, and national reserves. Idaho also shares the western edge of Yellowstone National Park.

In 1969, there was much attention given to this national monument as man landed on the moon. In August of 1969, the Apollo 14 astronauts spent five hours at Craters of the Moon studying the various terrains. They brought along hammers and magnifying glasses to get a close-up look at what their future lunar surface might look like. The Apollo 14 Moon Mission was completed January 31-February 9, 1971.

Robert Limbert settled in Idaho. In the late 1920s, he got a concession to operate a “dude ranch” in the town of Stanley. He often did speaking engagements and won shooting contests. Sadly, he died in 1933 from a brain hemorrhage at the age of 48. Without his promotion of Craters of the Moon, I’m not sure how far the land would have come. Would it have been preserved or just lost over time?

Yet this foreboding and desolate land in central Idaho may not remain asleep forever. Scientists believe that within 900 years, Craters of the Moon may be active again. Hundreds of years from today, people may see fire and smoke. Many of the current features named by Limbert, such as Vermillion Chasm, Echo Crater, and Bridge of Tears, will evolve and change and become a new “Wonderland” for future generations.